This came in last week, belongs to a recording studio. The complaint? Harsh distortion at any volume.
First note, just a low E revealed this to be true. I felt annoyed. Sounded like bad voice coils. I did not wish to box up another four speakers and send them to California, not after the last 4x10" amp ('67 Marshall Bluesbreaker combo) had four bad voice coils. Made that telltale "THWACK" sound. Ruh Roh.....
But after opening the amp up I could see one electrical problem. The screen grid resistors were fried. I believe they were 1 watt resistors. Never use less than 2 watt.
After installing them I checked the bias. Each of the Sovtek 5881 WXT tubes were drawing about 4 milliamps. So, I re-biased for 35ma and the amp came to life.
This amp was rebuilt by someone years ago, new caps etc. They also did the black panel Fender mod which is pretty extensive. Worth doing. These amps have nothing really special about them so why keep a rather mushy sounding amp 'original' when it can sound great, and this amp does sound great. It's one of the last of the 45 watt models. They went to 70 watts about a year later. I really don't like those! The 70 watt amps are heavier (these are plenty heavy!) have an ultra linear transformer which I'm not fond of, lacks the power supply choke and no tube rectifier. The result is a harder sounding amp. Okay for country music if you need to play really loud. But for me? I prefer the softer compression a 5U4 or 5AR4 rectifier tube offers. These earlier models just have nice color to the sound, more warmth and more compression when you hit a note at high volume. Amps from this era can be a bargain. Still hand wired, still very high quality and easily modded to be close to the coveted 60's black models.
One more problem was noise. The reverb recovery tube was bad and the 2nd channel preamp tube for volume and tone had a good hum. That part was easy. The first channel had a good amount of snap crackle pop going on. And to make matters worse after replacing the load resistors and cathode cap, it didn't go away, it just became intermittent. Ugh. Some 70's Fender amps I've found the wire to oxidize and go noisy. I really hoped it wasn't that. Not up to replacing wires but if you do find this, start with the anode wires going to pin 1 and 6 on the 12AX7.
Fortunately it wasn't this. I found when it was in full crackle mode if I turned the channel all the way down it was gone (duh!) but also found if I turned the channel all the way up is went away. It only crackled in the middle. So I threw in a brand new CTS 1meg volume pot. Let it play for 2 hours and no noise. It's rare I get a volume pot that does this but I remembered my man Steve at Angela Instruments telling me this back in 1990 or so. Worthy of a try and it worked.
This amp has the original master volume and distortion circuit accessible through a pull switch. If I did the mods I would pull that bullshit out of there! The master volume never really gets dirty enough to justify having it in there, the distortion is comically bad sounding and the extra wires running around add a bit of hum. But like I said, this amp sounds great so if it ain't broke.....
For some ideas on Super Reverb prices, click here:
https://reverb.com/marketplace?query=fender+super+reverb
The 1967-1969 ones are some of my favorites once converted. But even the 1967 black panel amps aren't awfully expensive! You can spend way more on a boutique amp. Heck, I even built one for a client that set him back $1800 initially. He had every ultra expensive component mapped out for the thing. Top of the line Weber speakers, big ass Mercury Magnetics output transformer, every cap and resistor mapped out from years of "research" on internet forums. The result was the only amp I ever built that I didn't like. It was anemic. Another $1000 later it was exactly as I would have built it. Run of the mill Sozo caps, carbon comp resistors, cheap Weber Chicago series speakers, and the amp sounded like an old Super. Really great! And I was was baffled as to why anyone would go to the expense when an original is just not as expensive! Though, I sure appreciated the business, and he was a great client. Learned a lot about cap differences through his OCD tendencies. Literally, he would have me change one cap due to some jive he read on the web, but that one cap did make a difference....
I remember the first Super Reverb I ever heard. It was a Berklee Professor named Jim Kelly who had one and I saw him on a gig. I was floored by his tone. The second was my man David Lyons who now owns Sonic Circus (http://soniccircus.com/) in Vermont. After playing his my "new amp" phase abruptly ended. He had such a lovely sound. I no longer really play gigs big enough to justify using one of these but if I did, these are excellent workhorses. Tough as nails and really cut nicely.
Let's see. One these plus that Bluesbreaker equals 8 ten inch speakers....... Yeah, that's the ticket....
JB
I have a 76 Super Reverb and it has been the best amplifier Ive owned. I havent played for a few years (suddenly had 3 kids) and I plugged in the other day and man it sounds like crap. Like a layer of gristle riding on top of the low notes. It had started developing noise problems about 10 years ago but definitely got worse in dormancy.
ReplyDeleteThanks for asking...
DeleteI'll see if I can help.
When troubleshooting I always find it best to work from back to front. In other words:
1. Check the speakers first. Plug in a speaker that you know is good and see how it sounds. Clear? No low end gristle? Then check your speakers. Could be a bad coil, or could be as simple as some dust accumulating in front of the cones. I've seen this so many times it's routine to check them. On your Super it's easy, the grill is easily removed from the front. Check for voice coil rub etc....
Gristle still there?
2. Check output tubes. Put a fresh set in. Problem solved? Yay.
No?
3. Check your preamp tubes going from left to right starting with the 12AT7 tube that is closest to the power tubes.
These are the things one can do without opening the amp up. What's inside one needs to be careful with.
Now if none of these things above solve the problem it's likely a bad cap, resistor or faulty soldering. Same thing applies here, work from output stage towards the input.
Safety first. If you have experience with these amps get in there. If you aren't comfortable with potential serious injury or worse, leave it to a good technician.
If your amp has been sitting I would have every electrolytic capacitor changed. They dry out over time. And you'll love the sound of your amp.
Hope this helps! J
Also, it's good to clean all sockets, pots and jacks with some contact cleaner and tighten every nut and bolt. Sometimes that's all it takes.
DeleteHey Jef, can you talk a little more about what you’ve learned about cap choices and the subtle differences changing one or several caps in a circuit can make. My curiosity stems from personal experience. I recently performed a black-panel mod on a 1976 pro reverb, which sounded pretty good. However I later decided to up the ante on this amp. When I bought it, every coupling cap in the amp had been replaced with Nichicons. I happened to have a full set of 60’s era blue molded caps in my parts drawer, so I decided to put them in. Not to set off a cork-sniffing discussion here, I know how this type of thing can go on the forums, but the difference was quite remarkable.
ReplyDeleteNot surprising.
ReplyDeleteI have a disdain for those Nichicons. Actually, the worst. They just don't sound good to me. Harsh....No idea why but that's just been my experiences.
So going from those to a set of blue Ajax caps is night and day. That's a giant step actually.
I don't know what exactly makes them so musical, I just know from experience they have a lot of color and a pleasing sound overall. Much like the old Mullard mustard caps in Marshall amps.
The Nichicons I believe are polypropylene like the Sprague orange drop 715 and copper 716 series. I will say though I'm not a fan of the 715, in some cases such as a dull sounding amp they can be beneficial. The 716 is a good hi-fi cap though I prefer oil caps for my hi fi. I do like the Sprague PS polyester film series orange drops however. They're warmer so when I need to go orange, that's what I choose. They are closer to the vaunted Ajax cap. I am not a fan of paper in oil when it comes to guitar amps. I like a good old fashioned polyester film or mylar cap.
Sozo does make a supposed version of the blue Ajax caps. I have some loaded into my '69 Deluxe Reverb, mixed with some blue Ajax caps as well. I haven't and won't do any critical comparisons. I will just say I really like those. Worth the price in my opinion.
On a budget, the Mojo Dijons I like very much as well as the Mallory 150, which I like less but they're still quite nice.
I don't know if any of this helps! I'll leave off with this: About 15 years ago I had a client who brought me his blues De Whatever Fender Hot Rod something amp. You know, those loudass "best amp for your buck" new fangled things. He wanted me to change every cap and resistor in the signal path. Caps were Nichicon, resistors were cheap carbon film ones. I thought he was nuts of course but since I like money I took on the job, which wasn't cheap. I thought I would get a negligible difference in the end, waste of time and money but lo and behold, it sounded like a good old amp in the end. I used Nichicon carbon composition resistors in the signal path and Mallory 150 series for caps. We're not talking transformer or speaker changes. The whole thing sounded like I wish those things sound out of the box: warmer, better depth, richer tone and less of that harshness they are known for.
Thanks for your comment!