J
I love old tube amps. If you dig them as much as I do, this blog is for you. Guitar, Hi Fi, recording gear, nothing beats the warmth and character of this antiquated technology. Shared here are tips to keep your much loved old amps in good shape, and tips how to improve your new gear. Have a comment or suggestion? Leave it here! Thanks for reading!
J
This was a fun one. It arrived DOA. It needed the battery clip to be re-soldered which was easy enough but then the fuzz part was barely audible. In this case it just needed a re-cap. These are reaching the half century mark so just do it already!
This is one of the non inductor wah models. I'm not terribly keen on this one myself but it does have it's own special trashiness that would be perfect in the right setting.....
This is a good story with a happy ending.
In June 2021 my favorite amp was stolen from my van in Brooklyn. I played Russian roulette with my gear many times, it was buried under blankets but on this night I'm pretty sure I was being watched by someone in McCarren Park as I locked my van up for the night.
Ok.... another pedal. This one was fun. It belongs to a good friend and it's been with him since the 90's. It came sounding rather weak and with a lot of crackly chunder going on. So I put on "The Gentle Side of John Coltrane and in 4 sides (just over 1 1/2 hours) I re-capped it and cleaned it thoroughly. I also changed the LED as the original was going dim. We went with blue cause... why not??
Got lucky with this one. I've been taking on some pedals at Southside Guitars. I kind of enjoy them.... it's nice when you can find a schematic and even nicer when you can get them to work!
This one is a 1972 Mu-Tron Octave Divider with a cool 70's Miles Davis era ring modulator function. When it arrived it only half functioned (bass only side worked, the rest did nothing!)
I got lucky. I did the routine: changed EVERY electrolytic and tantalum capacitor and cleaned everything thoroughly, touched up the solder joints.
And yes! it came back to life. No IC changes necessary. But then two out of the three LEDs died!!! So I ordered a kit o' LEDs and replaced all of them. It's ready to go cut tracks in your Miles inspired band or EDM or whatever you wanna do! Go on and get your creativity on! If you buy this one it's a good one. Y'all know me, I'm a strong proponent of changing out those electrolytic caps (exceptions are old fuzz boxes that sound like the customer want's them to sound.... gotta wait till those die otherwise you'll get that "but it had this thing before!!)
This was a fun one. A very nice Park 75 from 1969.
In my 32 years of doing this I've had the pleasure of working on exactly 3 Park amps from the old Marshall 60's plexi era. I did work on a 70's one at some point but that one wasn't as memorable.
The first was a Park 45 a guy brought to me in Portland about 20 years ago. He had just bought it at a pawn shop in Vancouver Washington for $300. A wild man apparently had dropped about a dozen ancient Marshalls there so I dutifully drove there right away and bought several. They were all in various states of dis-repair but little things like, in the Park 45 the slope resistor had been removed.
That amp with it's KT66 tubes left an impression! I wish I was the lucky man who popped in that day.
The second was a Park 150 I bought from a shop in downtown Portland for about $500 or so around the same time. That one didn't thrill me as much but it was pretty fascinating. I recall it being somewhat like a Marshall Major but far more interesting. It had an early "overdrive" channel and was just too much amp for me. Think Ritchie Blackmore. I did like that channel though, more primitive than the few Laney Klipp amps I've seen. That Park didn't stay with me long, I re-capped the power supply and flipped it like a burger.
I do know that Park was built by Marshall, but with subtle circuit changes as to not totally compete with Marshall. The coolest thing about that 150 is there isn't a Marshall like it. He seemed to be in a groovy experimental place building that one.
Then last week this beauty came across my bench.
Second box of the day. This one arrive DOA. Someone had boogered it up inside with some shoddy tech work and ya know, why make an EH pedal worse than it already is? These charmingly janky boxes that do a good job of falling apart on their own.
I got this one working by re-wiring the battery cables. The switch was intermittent so I replaced that and it worked brilliantly for about 3 minutes then POOF!
Power supply issue. I needed to replace the 2n4302 FET in the power supply. They are rare and spendy. I first tried a recommended substitute but that failed after 10 minutes. I replaced all of the electrolytic caps with the same values and replaced the tantalum cap with another tantalum. I also replaced the 13v zener diode (this pedal is 18v, takes two 9v batteries.)
I don't find much joy in working on janky pedals but it is nice when there is success and I've learned something.
How is it? It's a two trick pony.... slap back and faster slap back plus blend. That's it. I can do better with just a delay box. However, it sounds wickedly trashy! If I had a studio I would own one of these. I'm not sure there is anything else that quite sounds like this box.....
Ok, I know it's not a tube amp but whatever. It's old, it's vintage and it's effing weirdly kinda cool.
I've received a box of pedals from Southside Guitars in Brooklyn. Pedals are not my idea of a good time but I do like bringing things back from the dead.
This one arrived DOA. If you are lucky that just means a bad battery cable or a bad joint. You should also heat up EVERY solder joint and clean every pot twice minimum. Did that and still nothing.
In this case I needed to change the Optocoupler to get it going. I bought one and the thing made sound but did nothing else than that. I also re-capped the thing, still no effect. I was at a loss as to what to do. So I consulted the interweb and found a guy on the Facebook who had success with one of these. I followed his advice and made my own optocoupler with a white LED and a GL5528 photo sensitive resistor.
(Shout out to Pete's Pedals in St Louis for the help!!)
And, it started to do, erm, something! I needed to re-solder the batter connectors on both ends of the cable and clean the pots once again and now it works. I needed to adjust the little trim pot on the inside to make the LED maximum bright. The cool thing about making your own optocoupler is you can see how that light is actually behaving.
It's a very rare box with good reason..... not much use for a guitar player like me. I can pretty much make my fingers do what this does but I can see one of my analog synth addict friends having a good time with this box. You play it softer and it lets more sound through in one mode. Play it louder and it cuts the volume. That's in Bow mode. Percussion appears to be the opposite. You hit the note hard and it really spikes.
Can't really tell much from my little demo but here we go anyway......